So I stayed down in Columbia this weekend –only to strain my finger. It’s my right ring finger (not the one I had surgery on). I went to the climbing gym on Thursday and had a good session. Although my fingers were feeling pretty worked the next day I didn’t think much of it. I went back to the gym yesterday and warmed up then got on a pretty hard route. After pulling down hard I could really feel it in my finger. I quit immediately and went to grab a couple cold pints of Bell’s to ice my hand. This morning I woke up and my finger is still quite sore. I’m super bummed because I have a long weekend coming up and I want to climb a bunch. I’m hoping it will heal if I lay off of it until then but we’ll have to play it by ear. I’m so psyched about climbing and not so psyched about the injuries that come with it. Oh well, just gotta keep my head up and hope for the best. It’s looking like Cardio and icing my hand this week.
Last night I went to see Jason Isbell and the 400 unit at the White Mule in Columbia. I listened to him a little bit on Slacker radio but wasn’t sure what to expect from a live show. He was previously a member of the twangy southern rock band, the Drive-By Truckers. As two mediocre bands opened I anxiously awaited Isbell. When they came on stage and cranked out there first song I knew it was going to be a great show. His voice is awesome and the band is super tight. If you get a moment you should check em out.
This weekend is looking splitter for you mountain folk! Get out there and crank some routes for me. I’m laying low this weekend to save a little cash. It will be pulling on paltry plastic for the next week…
I visited Boone last weekend. The temps were killer and Erich was nice enough to come out and belay me on Saturday. Thanks Erich! He didn’t climb because he was about to spend 4 days at the Red…I can’t blame him. I worked Unwritten Law and gave it 4 solid burns. I feel confident that it will go very soon! We ran into Josh and Bill out there as they were enjoying the good temps and working on some hard shit. They got on Pigs and Zen and Tiers for Allah while we were there. Although the dump is known for it’s peculiar slab routes, there are definitely some steep, hard routes to be climbed. I went out to the Dump on Sunday again but it was quite humid and I did one route and left for Columbia. I’m looking forward to spending some time in the mountains over labor day. Below are a few pictures from the weekend.
For the picture below I had to climb on top of a building next to the famous “Real Mexico”…
I stayed in Columbia this past weekend because I had to move. I was staying in the northeast for a couple months. I am now living downtown again. Thanks to a couple friends we were able to move pretty quickly. I’ve been unpacking for the past few days which is never any fun. Saturday night we had a few friends over to grill it up. We also had a pony keg of Bells Best Brown Ale. Oh yea! I live close to the climbing gym too. I think I’ll start riding my bike to and from to sneak in a little cardio before and after climbing.
Lately I’ve been thinking about one route in particular –> Unwritten Law. It will stay in the back of my mind until I do it. Every pedal on the elliptical machine, every jump through the rope and every route I climb at the gym; it’s all for that one route right now. I’ve never been so determined to do a particular rock climb. I think bouldering is completely different. I have projects all over the place because most of the problems are so accessible. You can just hop on any boulder problem without worrying about leaving gear, getting a belay, taking whippers and so on. If you can’t do it you just move on to the next thing! I’m going up to Boone this weekend to try my luck again. Maybe this time I’ll hit it fresh. I can’t wait for fall…it’s so close I can taste it!!
In the past 7 weeks I’ve been to Boone 5 times and the NRG once. If you’re into stats, it means there is a 14% chance of finding me in Columbia on the weekends. Has rock climbing taken over your life yet? The climbing gods have rained me out once or twice but I’ve been able to climb at least one day each weekend. I’m very thankful that the weather in Boone has been so good. The weekends go quick but they say time flies if you’re hanging from a rock. Some people complain about how hot and humid it is in the high country and I can’t help but laugh.
This weekend my Tacoma will get some much needed rest. It seems like I get an oil change every month! On Saturday I’m moving into a duplex with a good friend of mine. We found a nice place downtown that was recently renovated. The appliances are all brand new (most importantly the A/C unit). No more apartment life to the time being! I’m psyched that once again I will be close to the climbing gym and good beer.
I was in Boone over the weekend and “Hawked” it up on Saturday with a “Dumpy” session on Sunday. Saturday was so good. We climbed several routes but the highlights include the following:
- Megan top roping the 5.8 for her first climb outside (ever)!
- Leading “The Green Wave” — Whoa. Totally blew my mind.
- Watching Mike onsight “No Free Lunch” and then Ryan saying “I think that’s the best route I’ve ever climbed”
- Leading “The Jug Route” — Kick ass route that I want to do every time now.
Sunday was sweet too. I got on Unwritten Law but got shutdown for the second week in a row. I wasn’t feeling super fresh but that’s no excuse. Maybe next time I’ll push through the pump. I have some photos from Hawksbill that I will post up tonight.
Here is a shot I snapped with my phone right outside of my office building. I spotted this sneaky creature scampering up the wall and was lucky enough to get him while he was puffing out!
Hey yall. Sorry I’ve been slacking on my blog lately. I’ve been busy driving, climbing, driving back to Cola and working. Anyways, I was able to sneak out of Columbia for a weekend and go climbing with some good friends. We got out to Hawksbill early on Saturday and we were able to crank out a handful of routes before it started raining. Went went to Middle and started on two classic 5.9 sport routes. They were both perfect warm ups and offered great holds with nice cruxes. Next we got on “If you bolt it they will come” which is a classic 10.a on a nice arete that turns into face climbing. After that we stepped up to “pseudo hardman” which is an excellent 10.c sport route. This thing really makes you work for your “c”. The last thing we got on was “Manifest Destiny”. Erich came through strong as usual and was able to dog it to the top. I told him to pull the rope like a dumbass and wasn’t able to do the crux so we ended up leaving a leaver. I also met Sandy and Christian which was nice to finally place a face with a name. We ended the day with a Bells – Two Hearted Ale which happens to be what I’m drinking right now. Incredible beer, period.
On Sunday the weather looked like crap but Erich and I tried our luck at the Dump. It was SICK! Besides the fact it was misting/raining on and off all day, we were able to climb some routes. We got on some moderates and then it started to rain pretty solid. We moved our stuff to Unwritten Law and gave it a few goes. I one hung it so I’ll be back to work it soon. After that (despite the weather) I did Fry Cleaned (my first 11.d) while it was misting! I was so psyched to finally do that route. Erich and I still cannot figure out how in the hell that place stayed dry. The drive out on 221 was so foggy I couldn’t see 20 ft in front of me!!
I didn’t get many good pictures from this weekend but here are a few: