Cut it out!

Uncut footage.  This seems to be the hot topic in the climbing world right now.  Check out DPM’s latest article, Uncut Footage: The Burden of Proof or a Threat to our Community.  To me it seems like such a waste of time.  Who really gives a shit if what’s his name lied about climbing a project over there?  It comes down to that climber’s morals, which have obviously been twisted long before they humped their way up their first rock.

As an amateur videographer I have shot and edited both types of footage; cut and uncut.  Uncut footage is easy to film but boring to watch.  Cut footage requires multiple angles and multiple climbing efforts because I usually shoot with one camera.  To me it’s simple, be honest.  Use the shots you have (whether it’s one uncut shot, or 15 different angles).  If the climber has sent the problem I feel that it’s just to use all angles regardless of whether the shot was from the initial send or repeating one move for editing purposes.  Just a little rant from yours truly…

Recent Searches

You might be a climber if...

I just pulled up the weather to check out the forecast for Lake Lure this weekend.  The “Recent Searches” caught my eye.  I thought it was kinda funny…Do these destinations (besides Columbia) seem vaguely familiar?  Where do you find yourself climbing lately?

Get your drive on, get your climb on.

Xmas 2010

Happy Holidays to all of my loyal blog readers!  I hope everybody had a warm and safe holiday.  My family and I went to Chilhowie, VA to visit my dad’s girlfriend for xmas eve and xmas.  If you were anywhere near western NC I’m sure you had plenty of snow for that white Christmas you were hoping for.  Hell, even Columbia got several inches!  On the downside, that white fluffy snow kept me from getting a single day of climbing in.  Thursday was the only chance for climbing (at the Bald) but I had prior engagements.  This weekend is looking a little better for climbing.  I’m thinking I’ll bring in the new year in Asheville…

Christmas Eve - Chilhowie, VA

Banzai FA


Rumbling Bald: First Ascent by Zachary Lesch-Huie

Lake Luring

Lately it seems like Rumbling Bald has been pulling me in.  This past weekend I was planning on saving money and staying in Columbia.  That didn’t happen.  After a quiet Friday night in Cola I was up early heading to Lake Lure.  I arrived around 10:00am and was one of the first five cars in the parking lot.  I marched up to the Cave Boulders (Kung Fu Grip, Rotator  Cuff, etc) to warm up.  I was the only person at the boulder for about 45 minutes.  Climbing in solitude was a remarkably peaceful experience.  The morning air was brisk and the surroundings were still.  It wasn’t long before a loud group of peeps rolled in and set up shop.  I worked on Rotator Cuff and made good progress on it.  I hit the crescent crimp 5 or 6 times and hope to send next time.  After that I walked over to the breakfast area to meet up with some friends and complete some unfinished business.  I sent Yogurt after a handful of tries.  Sending my little project was great for many reasons.  The most important was the feeling of perseverance.  In climbing it’s very rewarding to work something out, fail, fail, fail and then finally send.   Speaking of determination, Zach went back to his proj and was able to put up a FA of a problem he dubbed Banzai, v5 (eh-emm sandbag!).  Nice one!  I captured this on video so be sure to check back soon!

Sunday I went back to the bald and met up with Señor Grimbo and his friend Will.  It was their first time to the bald so I showed them some classics.  These little dudes are pretty strong and both put the hurt on Shady Grove.  I got on Bruce’s Problem on the way to the East Side and will have to return to finish it.  Big props to Ehrin who recently sent that badboy!  Rumbling Bald is becoming my home away from home.  More Leaf Man coming soon??

Grease Pit

My friend Shannon snapped this shot of me on Grease Pit at Rumbling Bald.  Checky check his style at ShannonMillsapsPhotography.com << So Sick.

Leaf Man!


You never know what’s lurking beneath the leaves…

Lucero

If you like alt country music, you’ll love this band. Originating from Memphis, they infuse their music with that sweet southern soul.  Front man Ben Nichols has a raspy voice that you’ll grow to love.  Since 2001, they’ve put out several albums.  So far my two favorite albums are That Much Further West and Rebels, Rogues & Sworn Brothers.  This band is definitely on my list to see when they come around.  Here are a few songs to get ya started:

West on Hwy 26

This past Friday I drove up to Asheville, NC and this time it was special.  My mom lives there!  It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get up there.  As I walked in the door I was greeted by my mom, my sister (Megan) and an ice cold Bell’s brown ale.  Life is good.  Well, it wasn’t long before those women put me to work.  Both of their computers needed doctoring so off to work I went.  30 minutes later momma rang the dinner bell.  I knew I was in Asheville because we had wild Alaskan Salmon, organic broccoli and some kind of new-age rice.  I managed to work on their computers, drink beer and get MFR (myofascial release) from my mom all in the same night.  She’s a good therapist, even while she watches 60 minutes.

Saturday morning I woke up to hot coffee and organic oatmeal with banana puree.  Whoa, these women really know how to take care of a man…if only they were not related to me!  So I ate and hit the road, rumbling bald bound.  Even though I got crushed I had a great day bouldering.  We got on a bunch of classics like Coffee Yogurt, The North Carolinian, Grease Pit and several more.  After climbing we headed up to the Wedge Brewing Co.  I had a fantastic brew named the Iron Rail IPA that I highly recommend.  We were feeling good after slugging that 7% brew on an empty stomach.    Next I met up with my family and we went to Carmel’s.  First impression, overpriced.  Last impression, still overpriced!

Sunday I woke up to a few inches of snow.  I hit the road around noon and scooted back down to Columbia.  Now that I gots some family in Asheville I’ll probably be up there a bit more.  It’s bald season baby!

Jon is a North Carolinian - v5