It’s been a while since I’ve posted on the personal. It’s kinda nice coming back here to post every once in a while –kinda feels like home. You know, the place you can be yourself, pick your nose, sing in the shower, make pterodactyl noises, etc. In the past several months I’ve been able to get outside and climb quite a bit. I’ve getting over my finger injury (I hope) and getting some decent mileage in, especially trad climbing. So several months ago I found the courage to attempt No Free Lunch at Middle Hawksbill. This is quite an intimidating line if you’re a trumbie. After several goes, and several whips, I finally sent the route. Although it’s not super hard (weighing in at 10.d), you have to pull a big roof on gear. It’s heady to say the least. Once that was done I went over and did “The Seam”. This is also a 5.10+ gear route that gets pretty run-out, especially if you don’t have the proper protection (TCU’s anyone?). It probably took me about 30 minutes to finagle my way up that thing but I finally got through it. I highly recommend this route to all. The next day we went to Ship Rock and I was able to put the smack down on Anguish of Capn Bligh. This is a beautiful trad route at the upper end of Ship. It’s an extremely aesthetic line that follows two seams up to an arete. It’s basically two killer boulder moves and then you’re out. Matt P and Zachary were also psyched and fired it off on the same day. It was a new lead for all of us. The next day (third day on) we went to the dump for a few hours. I got crushed on Chromagnum and Black Jackets. Right before I left I decided to give Unwritten Law a burn. I gave it my best shot and ended up in a very familiar position: hanging on the last bolt before the big toss. It took me a few tries but I finally latched the dyno and clipped the chains. Although I didn’t send, I was just happy to complete the route and not lower off the quick links.
A week later I found myself in Boone (it was actually more like 4 days later because of a short week). Psyched, I went to the Dump on Friday morning with Erich. Matt and Melissa showed up soon after we got there. We warmed up on the two 5.10′s (Vermin and whatever) and then we moved our rope under the roof. I gave it a pretty good go on my first attempt, hanging the draws and going for the jug, hitting the lip but falling off. The second go was to the same spot, however I felt weaker. I rested up for about 20 or 30 minutes knowing I’d only have one more decent go. I (barely) stuck the dead point and thought “nope, this won’t be it…”, clipped the last bolt, tangled my foot in the rope, shook it off, threw for the jug and somehow stuck the move. Surprised, I held on, swung my heel up and clipped the anchors. Whew! This was definitely my most drawn out project I’ve ever completed. It felt awesome after battling injuries, distance and motivation for well over a year. After this we went over to Sunken Treasure and Erich and I both did the Stain. That thing is sweet! I just barely did it, almost fumbling the clip and decking twice. Erich also sent Swashbuckler (12.a) which was awesome. I have to say I feel like I’m finally back to where I was. Although it’s probably a little narcissistic, I setup my camera for my Unwritten Law attempts. Here is the send:
I’m here in Columbia for the next few weeks due to money restraints and other obligations. I’ve got a big trip coming up with Erich the first week of August –we’re heading to the NRG for 8 days or so. Very excited! It will be hot but it will be sick. The only question now is what is my new project in Boone? Anybody got any suggestions for a rad 5.11+ or 5.12-?